Lab Overview
In lab 1, students swapped aircraft and conducted a peer review of another group’s Believer build. Each group identified defects, concerns, workmanship issues, and positive build practices on one other aircraft and documented their findings.
In this lab, students will return to their own aircraft and use the feedback provided by another group to critically assess their current build status. The goal is to identify deficiencies, understand root causes, and develop a clear corrective plan before continuing further assembly.
Feedback Review
Carefully review the written feedback provided by the other group.
Discuss the comments as a team to ensure everyone understands:
What issues were identified The issues identified in the other group’s review of our Believer were as follows: Splitting in the interior FWD of the fuselage Removed wooden motor mounts from assembly Modify pitot tube, Soldering of ESC D-sub wires to the left side wing Why the reviewing group flagged them? The splitting in the interior forward section of the fuselage was due to the group not applying enough glue to the structure and not applying enough pressure to ensure the two sides of the fuselage were glued together. The other items flagged were due to the flight not getting to those steps in the build yet. Whether the issue is cosmetic, structural, alignment-related, or procedural The splitting identified was more of a cosmetic and a slight structural issue. The missing screw base would be considered a structural issue. The other steps that have yet to be completed would be considered structural and procedural. You are expected to take the feedback seriously. Even if you disagree with a comment, you must be able to justify why it is not an issue based on the build instructions, measurements, or aircraft configuration.
For every issue listed, develop a clear corrective plan, including:
Specific steps required to fix or mitigate the issue To fix the splitting in the forward section on the interior of the fuselage, we added more glue and pressure to ensure the splitting was corrected. We are still trying to find a screw base. Tools or materials needed The materials needed is E6000 glue. Whether disassembly is required Disassembly was not required. If an issue cannot be fully corrected, the group must explain:
Why correction is not possible Correction was possible for the splitting; we are still trying to locate or replace the missing screw base. How the risk will be minimized moving forward To minimize risk in the event we can not locate or replace the screw base, we aligned the remaining three screw bases in a criss-cross pattern to ensure more structural efficiency. The build
Continue the physical build of your Believer and document all work in detail.
Your documentation should clearly reflect
Fix the splitting in the forward part of the interior of the fuselage. Used the E600 glue and applied pressure to ensure the two halves of the fuselage were properly glued together. Figure 1. Fixed the splitting in the fuselage
Added velcro to the interior base of the fuselage for the flight controller and cube. Measure a piece of Velcro to match the size of the flight controller, and place it in the interior base of the fuselage. No glue was needed due to the Velcro having an adhesive side. Glued the GPS on the AFT of the fuselage. Cut a small square in the top of the fuselage to allow the GPS wire to feed through to the flight controller. After the hole was cut, using the E600 Glue, glued the GPS on the top of the fuselage. Held in place until the glue was set to ensure proper bonding. Figure 2. Velcro added, wires fed through fuselage, and GPS in place
Figure 3. Holding GPS in place to glue
Attached a piece of carbon fiber tube to the pitot tube. Had a piece of a carbon fiber tube measured to the size of our Believer, cut it, and then attached the pitot tube to it. In order to do this successfully, pliers were used to gently stretch the pitot tube. After both tubes were connected, heat shrink was applied to protect and join the pieces together. Next, the tube was fed through a small pre-manufactured hole at the front of the fuselage. Then, using the E600 glue, placed glue around the tube in the front and back to ensure minimal movement and accurate airspeed readings. During our lab time, we unsoldered the right wing ESC D-Sub due to insufficient build standards. We forgot to add heat shrink to our wires, so we needed to correct that before the believer could be cleared for ground testing. Once the D-Sub was unsoldered, we put on the shrink wrap for each wire, and spliced the power wire for the servo and the ESC, and started to rewire the D-Sub connector using the team designated wiring diagram. Important Things to keep in mind when wiring ESC’s and servos to a 5 pin Female D-sub for wings Share power, so it’s important to solder a lap joint and have an extending lead to Pin #4 (Per Wiring diagram) As shown in pictures below, the small wire power was shared and heat shrink was applied, but the servo ground and power pins were flipped. So, we went in, respliced, soldered, and heat shrinked them protected and to keep the pins consistent across the aircraft. Note: This only occurred on the right-wing D-sub connection Heat shrink goes on prior to soldering to the fixed D-sub pins Ran into this problem a couple time with forgetting to add heat shrink and then having to restart. This process was very simple but time consuming! Note: Use these techniques for future sections! Add small amount of solder to fill hole of pin connection in D-Sub Slide heat shrinks to insulated part of wire Apply heat to both pin and wire, then push wire in for a great connection Note: 12-gauge wire will take longer to heat of than a 30-gauge, so be patient! Slide heat shrinks over soldered pin connections Use heat gun to properly seed and set the heat shrink around connections. This is mainly used to prevent a short if junk was able to get! Important Things to keep in mind when wiring ESC’s and servos to a 5 pin Male D-sub for Fuselage Share power, so it’s important to solder a lap joint and have an extending lead to Pin #4 (Per Wiring diagram) As shown in pictures below, the small wire power was shared and heat shrink was applied, but the servo ground and power pins were flipped. So, we went in, respliced, soldered, and heat shrinked them protected and to keep the pins consistent across the aircraft. Heat shrink goes on prior to soldering to the fixed D-sub pins Ran into this problem a couple time with forgetting to add heat shrink and then having to restart. This process was very simple but time consuming! Note: Use these techniques for future sections! Add small amount of solder to fill hole of pin connection in D-Sub Slide heat shrinks to insulated part of wire Apply heat to both pin and wire, then push wire in for a great connection Note: 12-gauge wire will take longer to heat of than a 30-gauge, so be patient! Slide heat shrinks over soldered pin connections Use heat gun to properly seed and set the heat shrink around connections. This is mainly used to prevent a short if junk was able to get! Label wire leads (if multiple) In this case with having 4 or more leads coming into one board, it is incredibly helpful to label what the purpose of the wires are! Especially since these connections are for the main fuselage and just have a connection to the D-sub and not the actual component! For example, in the pictures below you will see the soldered wires labeled things like Aileron and ESC. Later the side of the fuselage designation would be added to these labels (ex. ‘L’ for Left and ‘R’ for Right), just for further clarity! Soldering the main power connection for the CubeBlue and the Wings Note: Same soldering techniques apply to this section! Require (x2) 5V regulators and power leads from Male D-Sub connectors Match and solder all positive (+) leads together and negative (-) leads together. Should be soldering 4 wires on each The purpose of this is to have all the power coming from the XT90 power plug, which is attached to the battery. Soldering the XT-90 Plug onto the Main power leads Note: Same soldering techniques apply to this section! These are the main power leads that were just soldered in the previous section Solder an XT90 plug and be sure to add Heat shrink prior to soldering them together! Attaching Ruddervator Servos to Main Fuselage Screw in servo with provided silver screws Be sure to label and keep track of which servo is which when plugging it into the board! Screw on the circular provided white arm and attach the black slot plate to it with the fitting black screws provided Attaching the Control bar from Servo to Ruddervator control surface Picture not provided but the main control bars need to be screwed in, so they still have some threads exposed. This allows for additional movement from the servo to control surface. Ensure the servo-controlled tail arms are facing the correct way! Ours were backwards and we flipped them but one ended up splitting. It should be fine but definitely wanted to document it just in case! IMPORTANT: Be sure to attach control arms per the way displayed in the picture below! This ensures the most control and least strain on parts! As described in the pictures below Servo didn’t come with one straight arm for control, so take the 4 arm and cut three off. Important not to crack the last arm because this will lead to a failure in the field! So take your time! Drill out the top hole to a larger diameter because the machine screws for the control arms are too large for the original manufactured hole diameter. Screw on arm to servo and repeat 2 times! Glued in box displays proper screw dimensions for the cross brace and the cover plate Be sure to use the ones suggested and screw the down until it’s flat as to not disrupt flight path! IMPORTANT: Be sure to attach control arms per the way displayed in the picture below! This ensures the most control and least strain on parts! Wing Motor Mount and Assembly Front of motor line of silver shaft plate with machined holes. Use (x4) gray machine screws (NOT TAPERED) and secure shaft to motor. Flip motor and use (x4) Tapered machine screws to securely mount motor mount bracket Use (x4) machine screws and firmly secure motor to preglued, and installed, wooden wing motor mount. Tip: Screw each one in a little prior to screwing them completely down to ensure enough room for the screwdriver behind the motor when installing Remote ID wiring connection Note: Same soldering techniques apply to this section! CubeBlue Wiring Connections (Ensure to follow the Believer wiring diagram attached below to make sure that all the pins and connections are plugged in correctly.) Believer_Wiring_Diagram_111425.drawio.pdf
91 KB
Pull them through underneath the clear cross plate This creates a firm connection with the battery to the fuselage. Gluing on aileron supports Apply glue to the backside of the metal Gently press in the thin black piece of metal on the aileron control surface Wipe off access glue and apply tape to maintain a positive pressure on the strut. Motor wiring bay cover plate. Apply glue to the points of contact of the white plate and the wing Press lightly enough together that some glue does squeeze out Wipe away access and tape down so there is positive back pressure on the plate If needed add clamps for additional strength and proper adhesion is reached Do short runs of tap and don’t try to do it with one piece! More overlap is better than none! This ensures the strength and integrity of the tape as it’s going to be in contact with the ground upon landing Start pressing down and working the wrinkles out towards the edges of the wing! You don’t want to have wrinkles in the tape because this affects the aerodynamics Tape joints of control surfaces utilizing the edge of ruler to press the tape strips in the crack for good adhesion. Doing it this way also benefits the strength of the flap joints without compromising the dexterity of the joint when it is controlled with the servo.