Draw - Fade

From my research there are several ways to work the ball.

I am satisfied that it is up to me to find what works. Feel free to experiment yourself.

To get the spin required, the club-face needs to open or close a bit at impact with a club path that goes across the ball.

Fade

Club-face is a bit open

Club-path must go across the ball from out-to-in.

Draw

Club-face is a bit closed

Club-path must go across the ball from in-to-out.

Club-face

Open or close the club-face a bit at address.

Rotary Swing promotes owning your release. Intentionally release the club-face a bit closed, open or square.

Club-path

Change the club-path in-swing. Meaning hit more in-to-out for draw and out-to-in for fade. (While I can do this. I can only achieve a huge draw or huge fade with it.)

User your feet alignment to employ hitting across the ball as needed. For a fade, align feet just left of parallel. For a fade, align feet just right of parallel. This has the same effect as adjusting the club-path in-swing.

Rotary Swing promotes owning your chest position at impact. To assist in an open or closed club face. Open the chest a bit before impact for the open club face. Keep it a bit closed at impact for a closed club face. Chest involvement can help you avoid the dreaded double cross.

“Double-cross” - The key is to avoid the double cross by hitting a fade when trying to draw it.

To avoid this, try the following:

Draw - over rotate club face - closed. Chest is a bit late - hold chest a bit back.

Fade - hold off the release - open. Chest is a bit early - rotate chest a bit early.

What works for me:

Club-face

I use at address.

And release.

Club-path

I use chest position at impact.

I use feet alignment.

For the huge draw or fade around a tree, I have to utilize every part of every method.

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