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Good morning. Now, we’ve been asked to choose an aspect of European clothing or fashion and to talk about its development over time.
I decided to focus on a rather small area of clothing and that’s pockets. I chose pockets for two reasons, really. We all have them —in jeans, jackets, coats, for example — and even though we often carry bags or briefcases as well, nothing is quite as convenient as being able to pop your phone or credit card into your pocket. Yet, I suspect that, other than that, people don’t really think about pockets too much and they’re rather overlooked as a fashion item.
It's certainly very interesting to go back in time and see how pockets developed for men and women. In the 18th century, fashions were quite different from the way they are now, and pockets were too. If we think about male fashion first ... that was the time when suits became popular. Trousers were knee-length only and referred to as ‘breeches’, the waistcoats were short and the jackets were long, but all three garments were lined with material and pockets were sewn into this cloth by whichever tailor the customer used. The wearer could then carry small objects such as pencils or coins on their person and reach them through a gap in the lining. Coat pockets became increasingly decorative on the outside for men who wanted to look stylish, but they were often larger but plainer if the wearer was someone with a profession who needed to carry medical instruments — a doctor or physician, for example.
The development of women’s pockets was a little different. For one thing, they weren't nearly as visible or as easy to reach as men’s. In the 18th and 19th centuries, women carried numerous possessions on their person and some of these could be worth a lot of money. Women were more vulnerable to theft and wealthy women, in particular, worried constantly about pickpockets. So — what they did was to have a pair of pockets made that were tied together with string. The pockets were made of fabric, which might be recycled cloth if the wearer had little money or something more expensive, such as linen, sometimes featuring very delicate embroidery. Women tied the pockets around their waist so that they hung beneath their clothes. Remember, skirts were long then and there was plenty of room to hide a whole range of small possessions between the layers of petticoats that were commonly worn. They would have an opening in the folds of their skirts through which they could reach whatever they needed, like their perfume. Working women, of course, also needed to carry around items that they might use for whatever job or trade they were involved in, but their pairs of pockets still remained on the inside of their clothing, they just got bigger or longer — sometimes reaching down to their knees!
So the tie-on pockets went well into the 19th century and only changed when fashion altered towards the end of that period. That’s when dresses became tighter and less bulky, and the pairs of pockets became very noticeable — they stood out too much and detracted from the woman's image. Women who had been used to carrying around a range of personal possessions — and still wanted to — needed somewhere to carry these items about their person. That was when small bags, or pouches as they were known, came into fashion and, of course, they inevitably led on to the handbag of more modern times, particularly when fashion removed pockets altogether.

Question

Pockets
Reason for choice of subject
They are 31 ............. but can be overlooked by consumers and designers.
Pockets in men's clothes
Men started to wear 32............................ in the 18th century.
A 33..................... sewed pockets into the lining of the garments.
The wearer could use the pockets for small items.
Bigger pockets might be made for men who belonged to a certain type of 34 ...................
Pockets in women's clothes
Women's pockets were less 35................ than men's.
Women were very concerned about pickpockets.
Pockets were produced in pairs using 36................. to link them together.
Pockets hung from the women's 37.............................. under skirts and petticoats.
Items such as 38................. could be reached through a gap in the material.
Pockets, of various sizes, stayed inside clothing for many decades.
When dresses changed shape, hidden pockets had a negative effect on the 39 ................... of women.
Bags called 'pouches' became popular, before women carried a 40...................

Answer

31
Đáp án đúng:CONVENIENT
32
Đáp án đúng:SUITS
33
Đáp án đúng:TAILOR
34
Đáp án đúng:PROFESSION
35
Đáp án đúng:VISIBLE
36
Đáp án đúng:STRING(S)
37
Đáp án đúng:WAIST(S)
38
Đáp án đúng:PERFUME
39
Đáp án đúng:IMAGE
40
Đáp án đúng:HANDBAG
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Transcript

Hello, Wayside Camera Club, Breda speaking.
Oh, hello, um, my name’s Dan and I'd like to join your club.
That’s great, Dan. We have an application form — would you like to complete it over the phone, then you can ask any questions you might have?
Oh, yes, thanks.
OK, so what’s your family name?
It’s Green — Dan Green.
So — can I take your email address?
Yes, it’s dan1068@market.com.
Thanks. And what about your home address?
Well, I’m about ten miles away from your club in Peacetown. I live in a house there.
OK, so what’s the house number and street?
It’s 52 Marrowfield Street. Ql Is that M-A double R-O-W-F-I-E-L-D?
That’s right.
... and that’s Peacetown, you said?
Uhuh.
So how did you hear about our club? Did you look on the internet?
I usually do that, but this time, well, I was talking to a relative the other day and Q2 he suggested it.
Oh, is he a member too?
He belongs to another club — but he’d heard good things about yours.
OK. So what do you hope to get from joining?
Well, one thing that really interests me is the competitions that you have. I enjoy entering those.
Right. Anything else?
Well, also like to socialise with other photographers. Q3 That’s great. So what type of membership would you like?
What are the options?
It’s £30 a year for full membership or £20 a year if you’re an associate. Q4 I think I'll go for the full membership, then.
That’s a good idea because you can’t vote in meetings with an associate membership.
If I could just find out a bit more about you ...
OK.
So you said you wanted to compete — have you ever won any photography competitions?
Not yet, but I have entered three in the past.
Oh, that’s interesting. So why don’t you tell me something about those? Let’s start with the first one.
Well, the theme was entitled ‘Domestic Life’. Q5 I see — so it had to be something related to the home?
Yeah. I chose to take a photo of a family sitting round the dinner table having a meal, and, um, I didn’t win, but I did get some feedback.
Oh, what did the judges say?
That it was too ‘busy’ as a picture.
Aha — so it was the composition of the picture that they criticised?
That’s right — and once they'd told me that, I could see my mistake.
So what was the theme of the second competition?
Well, my university was on the coast and that area gets a lot of beautiful sunsets, so that was the theme.
Oh, sunsets, that’s a great theme.
Yes. The instructions were to capture the clouds as well —it couldn’t just be blue sky and a setting sun.
Sure, cause they give you all those amazing pinks and purples.
Yeah — and I thought I’d done that well, but the feedback was that I should have waited a bit longer to get the shot.
I see. So the timing wasn’t right.
Yes — I took it too soon, basically. And then the third competition I entered was called ‘Animal Magic’.
Well, that’s a difficult subject
I know! I had to take hundreds of shots.
I’m sure — because animals move all the time.
That's what we had to show — there had to be some movement in the scene. I got a great shot of a fox in the end, but I took it at night and, well, I suspected that it was a bit dark, which is what I was told.
Well Dan — you seem to be really keen and we’d be delighted to have you in our club. I’m sure we can help with all those areas that you’ve outlined.
Thanks, that’s great.

Question

Wayside Camera Club membership form
Name: Dan Green
Email address: dan1068@market.com
Home address: 52 1 ............................. Street, Peacetown
Heard about us: from a 2.....................
Reasons for joining:
to enter competition
to 3......................
Type of membership: 4..................... membership (£30)
Column 1
Column 2
Column 3
1
Photography competitions
Photography competitions
Photography competitions
2
Title of competition
Instructions
Feedback to Dan
3
5 '....................................... '
A scene in the home
The picture's composition was not good.
4
`Beautiful Sunsets'
Scene must show some 6......................
The 7..................................... was wrong.
5
8 '....................................... '
Scene must show 9......................
The photograph was too 10...................... .
There are no rows in this table

Answer

1
Đáp án đúng:MARROWFIELD
2
Đáp án đúng:RELATIVE
3
Đáp án đúng:SOCIALISE/SOCIALIZE
4
Đáp án đúng:FULL
5
Đáp án đúng:DOMESTIC LIFE
6
Đáp án đúng:CLOUDS
7
Đáp án đúng:TIMING
8
Đáp án đúng:ANIMAL MAGIC
9
Đáp án đúng:(ANIMAL) MOVEMENT
10
Đáp án đúng:DARK

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