I wanted to buy a company, I was young and single. I didn’t have anything, so I had nothing to lose. I looked at it a year before I bought it. At the time, I was in electronics. I passed, because I knew nothing about footwear and not much about sporting goods, other than what I knew from doing sports in college. I got a pair of the shoes, started running in them, and people would come up to me and comment that I must be a good runner. Unable to put a deal together in electronics, with the company still available, I went back, and the guy was desperate to sell it. We paid $100,000 for the company; we put $10,000 down, and the rest of the $90,000 was generated from lowering inventory.
Our values have been very, very consistent and reinforced continuously by Jim and Anne Davis. We do not endorse athletes. We aim to make every one of our shoes a performance product as opposed to just a fashion product. We sell every shoe that we make in multiple widths, because we believe that fit is a critical performance characteristic. We maintain a great percentage of our product in inventory for replenishment, so that dealers can continually get fill-ins when they sell and when they need certain sizes and widths. In contrast, competitors pretty much tell retailers, “Ok, tell us six months in advance what you’re going to want to buy and we’ll deliver it. But it’s fixed, and we don’t plan on having future inventory.” These basic factors, combined with our domestic factories, describe what makes us unique.
A 15-year-old who wants a pair of Nike Air Jordans might curl his toes or put on six pairs of socks to make that shoe fit. In that case, purchases are made based on how a shoe looks rather than whether it really fits well. The market that is interested in width sizing and fit is a little bit older and more mature; those customers demand a product that is a bit more conservative in its presentation and style. They tend to like a product and buy it again and again and again. It’s like a white button-down shirt. I own a white button-down, it wears out, I buy another white button-down.
Right now, we are emphasizing design more than we have in the past and are raising the level and stature of design within the organization. Design is going to become more important as time goes on, a much larger factor than it has been. We tend to be a little bit more conservative with design than our competition and stay within a certain realm for a relatively long period of time. Then we find that we might have hit a wall, so we have to come back and reinvent ourselves a little bit and move forward. The manufacturing folks do that every day. The rest of the company is playing catch-up there, and we have to reinvent ourselves a little bit more often than we have in the past.
If you’ve been selling New Balance shoes for the last 10 years, to sell 1,000 pairs you had 400 pairs in inventory. Assuming you are selling all domestic product, which some of our accounts do, we would say: “We think we can increase your sales next year and lower your inventory at the same time. We will ship to you the day after you order the product, so your inventories can be decreased dramatically. Rather than carrying 400 pairs, you can carry 200 pairs, and sell maybe 1,200 pairs instead of 1,000. And your markdowns are negligible, because your inventory’s so low.” And we think that’s a very compelling argument. We are taking all the risk when we do that.
Teammates put too much pressure on each other under the team-based compensation system. If one person was out of work because she had a sick child at home, there would be too much pressure on the rest of the team to perform, and she would come in feeling guilty the next day… We sat down with our supervisors and talked about how we might better accommodate these people, and one of the things that we came up with was hourly pay. We did a pilot run for a month or so, and we found that the production when we were compensating them on an hourly basis was equal to if not better than under the team-based piecework system.
Our factory had a classic arrangement, with cutting, embroidery, stitching, and assembly departments. Each department did its particular tasks for all styles, and the factory worked on a batch basis. To realign that under NB2E would require a big change. Instead of moving a day’s worth of production, we needed to move toward a more continuous flow. Doing this would require us to reduce work in process significantly and get the line associates and supervisors to embrace that change. The real challenge would be to keep making shoes every day while this transformation was ongoing.
New Balance is very good culturally at knocking down walls to get something done. But then it’s easy to regret that. That may be why we have so many styles and so many SKUs. Everyone’s trying to work harder. You try to do things efficiently and have the right type of metrics, and all of a sudden it’s just too many balls to juggle. And there’s the balance of the entrepreneurial—which is certainly a cultural thing here—and the fact that you wake up and you haven’t got a good handle on your inventory. Your inventory is too high, the wrong color, or on the wrong coast.