Simple Strength Training for Climbing

Maintenance

Explore

Full Routine (3 days in the gym)

Off-Season Strength Cycle, like Winter or Summer

Monday:

3:00 min walk to warm up

3 sets of deadlifts

10 reps, 8 reps, 6 reps with heavier loading each time (e.g. 95, 105, 115)

3 sets of bench press

10 reps, 8 reps, 6 reps with heaving loading each time

4 sets of weighted pull ups

First set is a warm up set, then I add weight for the last 3

I warm up my shoulders a bit during the deadlifts & benching to get ready for this

Hangboarding (optional, I never hangboard)

2 x 8 Bicep Curls

Wrist Curls / Finger rolls for wrist & forearm health

Either 2 x 30 @ light weight or 2 x 8 @ heavier weight

Short break, then

Unstructured climbing on the new set

Tuesday:

(or some other day)

(I do this at home)

2x 5 Hip CAR

2x 5 Shoulder CAR

2x 5 reps of 3s on, 5s off

Knee Flexion⁠

⁠

2x 6

Standing hip flexion lift off⁠

⁠

2x 8

Elbow supported shoulder rotation⁠

⁠

2x 5 reps x 5s

Sidelying shoulder ABD hovers⁠

⁠

3x (3 x 7:3) 90 degree tricep push up isometric hold

So you’ll do 7s on, 3s off, then repeat 2 more times. Then take a break and do that whole thing 3 times total

Wrist Curls / Finger rolls for wrist & forearm health

Either 2 x 30 @ light weight or 2 x 8 @ heavier weight

Wednesday:

Warm up

1 hr limit bouldering on the kilterboard

Muscle-up routine

Pretty optional, I do this for fun. But I think the triceps (and the hamstring & core afterward) are important to do at least.

5x EMOM, 1-4 reps of high velocity pull ups each round (with a resistance band for aid to go fast)

3 sets of negative muscle ups, 1 min on, 1 min off with 3-5 reps each set

I use a plyo box for aid to jump off of

4 x 8 sets of tricep dips

Use resistance band for aid if needed

4 sets

8 reps Nordic Hamstring Curl, engaged both directions

7 reps TRX Floating IY Core

10 reps Hamstring Runner

Friday:

3:00 walk to warm up

3 sets of squats

Either goblet squats or back squats

10 reps, 8 reps, 6 reps with heavier loading each time (e.g. 95, 105, 115)

2 x 8 Single Arm Landmine Press

2 x 8 DB Row (or inverse row on the TRX w/ elevated feet)

Hangboarding (optional, I never hangboard)

3x (3 x 10:3) 90 degree pull up isometric hold

So you’ll do 10s on, 3s off, then repeat 2 more times. Then take a break and do that whole thing 3 times total

Wrist Curls / Finger rolls for wrist & forearm health

Either 2 x 30 @ light weight or 2 x 8 @ heavier weight

Short break, then

Volume session, either endurance or power endurance focus

Then I might sport climb 1x at the gym on the weekend, and get in a few flexibility / yoga type things throughout the week.

Want to print your doc?
This is not the way.

Try clicking the ⋯ next to your doc name or using a keyboard shortcut (

CtrlP

) instead.