My fellowship ended, as the best adventures probably should, in a cockroach-infested motel on the grim urban overspill of JFK Airport. Air Lingus cancelled at 2 a.m., a coach dropped us — bewildered, exhausted — past the gleaming swanky airport hotels where sensible people were sleeping soundly, to the very last stop—Bate's motel. The security guard on reception informed us, with magnificent matter-of-factness, that the establishment was usually reserved for guests arriving from bail hostels.
The bed vibrated. The cockroaches did not.
I had gone to America to find out how stories save lives. I found answers in murals six storeys high, in handwritten notes pinned to walls, in conversations beside waterfalls, in cafés and radio studios and on street corners in the rain. And I came home — via an authentic Bukowski American road trip — more certain than I have ever been that the answer to all our problems is each other.